One of my main goals for sewing has always been to make my own clothes. I have a unique style, and it’s hard to find that off the rack. In addition, I’m plus sized and most garments that are just “sized up” don’t fit correctly, either gaping too much in the cleavage area or being generally unflattering on my body shape. (But shout out to Modern Millie in Salem for being the exception on both these counts!) Also, my Ciocia Stephie (great aunt) was a seamstress, and I always had custom made Halloween outfits growing up, so I definitely wanted to continue and expand that.
In high school, I made a couple simple circle skirts, and even a heavy velour cloak in college to wear to Lord of the Rings premieres. But those were simple patterns without many pieces to stitch together and not much knowledge required (I even had access to a serger to finish the hems, so I didn’t have to worry about that!). It took many, many years before I finally started on my journey to make my first dress… but I did! In October 2024, I started taking sewing classes at a local shop. She started me on quilting, as she starts everyone (practicing sewing in straight lines is important), and then I graduated to an apron, and then eventually a whole dress. The dress didn’t fit perfectly correctly, so I’ve now made it three times, altering a little each time as I work towards the perfect fit.
The first attempt resulted in a top that was way too big, but will make a nice, loose summer dress on hot and sticky days. As a note, my instructor insisted that the pattern as is wouldn’t fit my measurements (even though I thought it would, as it was the same measurements as dresses I get from Modern Millie), so she added a few inches before we sewed it up. And surprise! It’s too big by exactly those inches. Oh well, live and learn and stand up for myself.
On the second attempt, I took those extra inches out, and raised the neckline a little. I also lowered the torso end, because it just sat weirdly (I’m in my 40s, I have saggy boobs now!). The end result was better, with a much better fit, but still not perfect. It was still a lower neckline than I’d like (considering I’m a children’s librarian and have to keep in mind what’s appropriate at work), and the shoulders, which I had brought in a little, were still way too wide for me, and constantly fell down while I was wearing it. But still, it was super cute!
As an aside, I’ve added pockets into all these dresses using Bernadette Banner’s pocket tutorial. I love that tutorial, and making oversized pockets that can fit so much! One day I’ll learn how to put them in as I go along with the dress making, but for right now, I’ve been putting them in after the fact, and that’s worked well.
On my third attempt, I altered the neckline and bust even more, and I’m happy with that generally but I think I want to raise it even higher for future dresses. I have a buxom bosom, what can I say? I also took in the shoulders a little more, but they were still too wide for all day wear. However, I made this dress for a Ms. Frizzle costume for Halloween at work, and I didn’t have time to put in pockets or perfect it before the day, but it was wearable.
Then my sister’s wedding and the holidays were on their way, so I had to put away my personal sewing to work on presents and stuff. (I also made a wool cape to wear to the wedding, which I’ll write about later.) Finally, this past week, I had time to sew for myself (just a little time, I should’ve been working on decorations for my sister-in-law’s baby shower, but…), and I put in pockets, as well as putting in darts along the neckline so the shoulders don’t slide down (I also added in darts on the yellow mushroom dress). Now it finally fits perfectly, I can wear it at work, and I’m so happy with how it came out!
Seriously, look how seamlessly those pockets go in! And of course, I had to use fun fabric even though they’re put in so perfectly that nobody ever sees them.
The best part is that this is just my regular style, so I can now wear this dress year-round and nobody will think I’m wearing a costume. I mean, I get the Ms. Frizzle comments all the time in general anyway (I’ve been called “the Ms. Frizzle of librariancore”), but still. It’s a compliment!
I’m still working on perfecting this pattern, but now that I know what works for the shoulders, I can adjust the pattern piece before I make my next dress and hopefully not have to do any alterations later. I’m still in the “trial and error” skill level of clothesmaking, but maybe someday soon I’ll learn how to alter specific parts of a pattern before even one trial run. It’s definitely something I intend to start learning this year. But, one thing’s for sure: after making this dress three different times, one with instruction and two without, and adjusting it each time, I’m definitely feeling more confident about making my own clothes!
